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1934
- 70
Born
in Hampstead in 1934, Chris Bonington was educated at University
College School, London and the Royal Military Academy at Sandhurst.
He was commissioned in the Royal Tank Regiment in 1956. He
spent three years in North Germany in command of a troop of
tanks and then two years at the Army Outward Bound School
as a mountaineering instructor.It was during this period that
he started climbing in the Alps, making the first British
ascent of the South West Pillar of the Drus in 1958 and then
the first ascent of the Central Pillar of Freney on the south
side of Mont Blanc in 1961 with Don Whillans, Ian Clough and
the Pole, Jan Dlugosz. At that time this was one of the most
difficult climbs in the Alps and even today is considered
one of the great classics of the Mont Blanc region.He made
the first British ascent of the North Wall of the Eiger in
1962.
On
leaving the Army in 1961 he joined Unilever as a Management
Trainee but after nine months realised that he could never
combine a conventional career with his love of mountaineering.
Now married to Wendy, a freelance illustrator of children's
books, Bonington made the decision to go freelance and since
1962 has followed a successful course as writer, photographer
and mountaineer. They have two sons, Daniel and Rupert.
Having
started climbing at the age of sixteen, Bonington reached
a high standard of rock climbing while still in his teens.
In 1960 he was invited to join the Joint British-Indian-Nepalese
Services Expedition to Annapurna II (26,041 ft.), and reached
the summit.
Other outstanding climbs followed until in 1966 he was given
his first assignment by the Daily Telegraph Magazine to cover
other expeditions - climbing the highest active volcano in
the world, Sangay in Ecuador; caribou hunting with the Eskimos
in Baffin Island; a story from Hunza.Bonington's fast-developing
career as an adventure journalist and photographer reached
a climax in 1968 when he accompanied an Army Expedition, led
by the then Captain John Blashford-Snell, in their attempt
to make the first ever descent of the Blue Nile. This proved
to be Bonington's most exciting, and by far most dangerous,
adventure yet and by the end of the expedition he knew he
should get back to climbing, the activity he loved and thoroughly
understood.
In
the autumn of 1968 Bonington started planning an expedition
to attempt the South Face of Annapurna. At this time no major
Himalayan wall had been climbed and tackling this huge, 12,000
ft. wall was a step into the unknown since it involved climbing
steep rock and ice at heights of over 24,000 feet. Careful
choice of team members and logistical planning was rewarded
by success when Dougal Haston and Don Whillans reached the
summit on 27th May, 1970.
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