|
Calendar
of Events
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Apr
17
|
Team
fly to Biritnagar |
|
18
|
Team
fly to Suketar and walk down to Phurumbu - 1460m |
|
19
|
Reach
Chirwa, 1240m |
|
20
|
Reach
Sekathum, 1660m |
|
21
|
Reach
Amjilosa 2430m |
|
22
|
Reach
Kyap La 2630m |
|
23
|
Reach
Ghunsa 3795m |
|
24
|
Rest as Ghunsa -rain all day |
|
25
|
Reach
Kambachen 3960m |
|
26
|
Reach
Ramtang 4370m - Chris, Daniel, Rupert Bennett and Furtenjee
set out early and make recce up side valley to look at
back of Danga. It clouds in so that it is difficult to
get clear views but they see enough to ascertain there
is not an easy approach from this direction. Rupert Bennett
suffers from acute nausia that later develops into pleuresie |
|
27
|
Reach
Lhonak 4785m and establish a pleasant but windy base camp
- excellent rock climbing if you have the energy. |
|
28
|
Chris
climbs hill to East of Lhonak, gets good views of Danga
and realises that the chosen objective is not the true
Danga, is aklso concerned by the possible danger of the
approach up glacier head wall. Furtenjee with Himal, one
of our cook boys, walk up valley leading towards Danga
and report reasonable though tiring route. |
|
29
|
Chris,
Daniel, Gerald. James and Furtenjee walk up Danga valley
to the site of advance base at foot of glacier head wall
and confirm there is a safe looking route through the
glacier and on up the summit ridge of Danga II. The approach
to advance base was up a three hundred metre high morraine
into a glaciated valley, initially easilly up a flat firm
snow base and then over an obstacle course of boulders
to where it bifurcated. An easy slope led to a safe sit5e
for advance base on a rock shelf. |
|
30
|
Rest
day at base. Gerald and James walk up Lhonak Valley |
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|
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May
1
|
Rest
day |
|
2
|
Snows
all day - stay at base |
|
3
|
Chris,
Daniel, Gerald and James with Furtenjee move to advance
base. It was decided to replace Rupert with James for
the summit push, since James had been going well and had
taken part in the recce to advance base. Rupert, Dave
and Jude move up to Pangpema 4940m. |
|
4
|
The
climbing team set out at 03.30 climbing unroped for three
hundred metres up the centre of the glacier which was
lightly dusted with snow to show the crevasses. They then
roped up on a single rope to cross the more heavily covered
upper glacier, cutting across to its western side to pass
back rightwards below a rocky headwall to reach the upper
slopes at around 0630.
Easy snow slopes with the occasional crevasse led up to
the crest of the col between Danga 1 and II. There is
a broad basin and undulating ridges leading to Pandra,
giving apossible approach to this mountain as well. Danga
I could be climbed from a camp on the Col.
A broad crevasse with a fragile snow bridge led to what
we thought was the summit -a huge fin of ice on the crest
of the ridge. The true summit was just beyond this and
reached at around one o'clock. The team spent an hour
on the summit and returned to advance base by four thirty
that afternoon. This was the only totally clear day of
the trip!!
Rupert climbs peak above Pangpema. Dave and Jude go some
way up it. |
|
5
|
Return
to Base |
|
6
|
Walk
to Ghunsa |
|
7
|
Rest
at Ghunsa |
|
8
|
Wonderful
walk and views through Rhodedendron Forest to camp sight
below Sinion La. |
|
9
|
Walk
over series of high passes to Tseram 3980m |
|
10
|
10
Walk over Lasiya Bhaniyang into Omje Khola in heavy rain
- a hard day. |
|
11
|
Walk
to Yamphudin 1990m |
|
12
|
Walk
to Phumphedanda |
|
13
|
Walk
to pass above Khesewa |
|
14
|
Walk
to Tambewa |
|
15
|
Walk
to Suketar |
|
16
|
Wait
at Suketar |
|
17
|
Wait
at Suketar |
|
18
|
After
plane cancelation take bus from Taplejung to drive through
night to Biritnagar |
|
19
|
Back
in Kathmandu |
