expedition news

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9th September 2001

Location:
Advanced Base camp

Marks, Richey and Wilford, set out at 10.30 yesterday to walk over rough moraines to the foot of the Argan Eiger North Face. At 11 o'clock this morning we saw them through our binoculars and flurries of snow just beginning to cross the bergschrund at the foot of the face. They are obviously going to have a look in spite of the unsettled nature of the weather. It's snowing here at advance base.

Divyesh Muni, Cyrus Schroff with the Sherpas Dawa Wangchuk and Sam Gyal are at a high camp on the Nono Glacier and are due to attempt a 6000 metre peak today but we don't know whether they have set out in view of the weather.

The only other news is a delightful walk that Jim and I had on 6 September up the Phunangma Glacier from Advance Base. It was easy going but needed a rope since there were hidden crevasses. It was a great feeling being on ground where no one had ever trod and we were rewarded at the head of the glacier by a view of peaks stretching into the distance, probably most of them unclimbed.

We have now got to hope for an improvement in the weather. It is decidedly autumnal with snow showers but you can climb between them.



Chris with his I Book at ABC 5385m.

Mark Richey and Mark Wilford sorting out gear at advance base for their
attempt on the Argan Eiger. They hope to climb the arete up its huge North
Face seen in the background

Jim walking up the Phunangma Glacier with Chris to be the first ever to
stand on the Col at its head. The spectacular .6450 in background is a
particularly attractive objective


Berghaus