Looking down at Namche Bazar.

Ingrild, not feeling too well, gets a ride.

Thyangboche must surely be the best sited monastery in the World.

We were rewarded with the one clear morning of the trip, the day after we reached Thyangboche - the day of our ceremony. we had a superb view of Everest peering over the wall of Nuptse with Lhotse on the right.

We first attended a pujah in the Monastery. Although we couldn't understand the words, the chanting, blowing of horns and clash of symbols in this wonderful setting brought a sense of peace.

The Sherpas had built the Chorton on the ridge below the Monastery. After consecrating it, Jan, one of Arne's oldest and closest friends placed his favorite brand of cigars by the plaque with a small bottle of whiskey and we joined him in a drink and puff of a cigar.

There were tears in most of our eyes. Arne was a very special person with a huge capacity for creating a sense of fun, enjoyment and discovery. We all miss him.


And that isn't an exaggeration!!!

Some of the team, including young Ross, went on to visit Base Camp and attempt a peak above Lobuje - they are not back yet. Whilst the rest of us set out for home. It had been a rich and very moving experience, making new friendships and reinforcing old ones.




Norwegian Everest 20th Anniversary Trek

Our trek to Thyangboche was both joyful and sad for we were putting up a memorial to Arne Naess, leader of our expedition, who died in an abseil accident in South Africa in January 2004. Our team above comprised, from left to right, Klaus Eric Okstad, (cameraman on the 1995 Drang Nag Ri Expedition) Chris, Camilla Astrup (Arne's partner), Jan-Eric Knudsen (Arne's oldest friend), Ralph Hoibakk (team member), Torger Fosse, Ola Einang (team member), Pertemba (Sirdar), Bjorn Myrer Lund (team member), ..Rikka and Julia Myrer Lund (aged 11), Odd Eliassen (team member), Ross Naess and Diderik Astrup (Camilla's son). Stein Aasheim, (another team memeber) was forced to return to Kunde Hospital because his 8 year old daughter Ingrild had acute dysentery. She made a quick and complete recovery.

Our summit team from 1985. Sadly Ang Lakpa and Dawa Nuru, who also summited with us have lost their lives in subsequent climbing accidents.

Almost every time I go to Nepal I bump into High Altitude cameraman extra ordinary, David Breashears. He guided Dick Bass to the top of Everest in 1985, when we were there, went on to make the superb Everest I Max film in 1996 and was with me on Menlungtse in 1997. Diderik gets his autograph.

Lukla now has a tarmac runway and almost looks like an International airport!!!

The walk to Namche Bazar is as lovely as ever even though it was cloudy for most of the time. The path has been improved considerably and there is a huge amount of fresh building.

The bridges are as airy as ever.

Namche Bazar gets bigger and bigger in spite of the Maoist emergency.

I even found three copies of my books in the local book shop. There are cyber cafes and you can get hot showers in most of the lodges.