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CHRIS'S BLOG

Lofoten Islands September 2010

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I’ve just got back from a fantastic trip to the Lofoten Islands, far North of the Arctic Circle off the coast of Norway.  It is a fantastic region from a scenic and climbing point of view with huge potential for new routes.  It is also amazingly accessible.   You can fly from the UK with a few changes to Svolvaer on the main island, close to some of the best climbing.  It’s possible to rent a car from there and there are plenty of places to stay.  We stayed at Kalle, which has comfortable bunk house accommodation and you can either self cater or be very well fed at a reasonable price.

There is an excellent new Rockfax guide book by Chris Craggs and ThorbjørnEnevold.

 

View from the air.

 

From the air

The Priest – all one thousand feet of it, arguably the best road side crag in the World.

 

The Proest - probably the best road-side crag in the World.

Henningsvaer, an island village with a climbing school, a fantastic climbers’ pub in easy reach of some of the best climbing in the area.

 

Henningsvaer, an island village

Linked by bridge and dominated by mountains.

 

Mountains around Henningsvaer

Drying Cod – fishing and whaling were the original staples of the economy and are still very important.

 

Cod drying

Vaghakallen (916m) – a magnificent peak that has some great climbs on it ands a fantastic clasic traverse.

 

Vaghakallen

Walking up to Svolaergeita – the Goat – if you are feeling brave you jump from one horn to the other.  It has several routes ranging from 4+ to 7.

 

Walking up to Svolaergeita - the Goat

Our base, Kalle & Glamtinden (419m) in background.  It has only one route on it which we climbed during the week in the rain.

 

Our base, Kalle & Glamtinden

Litlmolla from Kalle.

 

Litlmolla from Kalle

Sport Crag at Eggum – Ildvann – 7 –  We went there on a cold wet and windy day;  the overhangs helped but it was still damp and slippery particularly at the easier less steep end.

 

Sport Crag at Eggum

Hans Peter on crux, Alkotest – 7+

 

Hans Peter on the crux of Alkotest

Chris struggling up Eggulf 5+

 

Chris going up Eggulf, a 5+

Still wet and windy, we walked up to Glamtinden, up the back to attempt the Eagle’s Ridge up the right hand sky line.

 

The Eagle's Ridge

Orneryggen – The Eagle’s Ridge – 5+ pretty well straight up from above the climbers – a really nice three pitch route.

 

Orneryggen - The Eagle's Ridge

 

Chris on Pitch 2

 

Chris on Pitch 2

A rainy view from the climb.

 

A rainy view

Jorgen, Chris and Stein on top.

 

l-r: Jorgen, Chris and Stein

Approaching the West Pillar on the Priest – two climbers about half way up. 12 pitches of superb climbing.

 

Two climbers about half way up the West Pillar

Hans peter on first Pitch

 

Hans peter on first pitch

Chris on Pitch 7 – every pitch is superb.

 

Chris on pitch 7

Chris, Hans Peter and Michel on top of the Priest.

 

l-r: Chris, Hans Peter and Michel

The view from the top, looking north west.

 

View from the top looking NW

It’s a great scramble back down!

 

Looking down on the bridge of Henningsvaer

 

 

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