Sir Christian Bonington CVO, CBE, DL
Badger Hill, Hesket Newmarket, Wigton, Cumbria, CA7 8LA
Tel: 016974 78286
e mail: [email protected]
* first ascent
*w first winter ascent
t first British ascent
- 1951 Ash Tree Gully Dinas Bach (Tom Blackburn) – first climb; Hope Idwal Slabs (Charles Verender) – first lead.
- 1952 Chimney Route Clogwyn Du’rArddu (Dave Pullin); Rana Temporia Quinag * (Tony) – first new route, a VS.
- 1953 Agag’s Groove Buachaille Etive Mor *w (Hamish Maclnnes, Kerr McPhaill, John Hammond, G. Mcintosh) – first winter climb; Crowberry Ridge Direct *w and Raven’s Gully Buachaille Etive Mor *w (Hamish Maclnnes); Hangover Clogwyn y Grochan (Geoff Francis) – first ‘Brown’ route.
- 1954 Surplomb Clogwyn y Grochan (Steve Lane) – second ascent.
- 1955 Macavity Avon Gorge * (Geoff Francis) – first new route on Avon’s Main Wall.
- 1957 First alpine season: South-East Face of Aig. du Tacul * (Hamish Maclnnes). Steger Route Cattinacio and Yellow Edge and Demuth Route Tre Cime (Jim Swallow); North Wall Direct of Cima Una t (German climber). Malbogies Avon Gorge * (Geoff Francis, Henry Rogers).
- 1958 Bonatti Pillar of Petit Dru t (Hamish Maclnnes, Don Whillans and Paul Ross, with Walter Phillip and Richard Blach); West Face of Petites Jorasses t (Ronnie Wathen).
- 1959 Comici/Dimai, Brandler/Hasse t and Cassin/Ratti routes Tre Cime (Gunn Clark); Woubits (Jim O’Neill) and Mostest (Jim Swallow) Clogwyn Dur Arddu – second ascents.
- 1960 Annapurna 2 * by West Ridge Nepal (Dick Grant and Ang Nyima) -expedition led by Col. James Roberts; King Cobra Skye * (Tom Patey).
- 1961 Nuptse * by South Face Nepal (part of second summit team with Jim
- Swallow, Ang Pemba and Les Brown – first pair: Dennis Davis and Tashi) -expedition led by Joe Walmsley; Central Pillar of Freney, Mt Blanc * (Don Whillans, Ian Clough and Jan Djuglosz). Trango Castell Cidwm * (Joe Brown); Ichabod Scafell (Mike Thompson) -second ascent; Schmid/Krebs Route Karwendal t (Don Whillans); Walker Spur of Grandes Jorasses (Ian Clough); North Wall of the Eiger t (Ian Clough).
- 1962 Central Tower of Paine * by West Face Chile (Don Whillans) – expedition led by Barrie Page.
- 1963 North Face of Pointe Migot * and West Ridge of Aig. de Lepiney * (Tom Patey, Joe Brown and Robin Ford); Andrich/Fae Route on Civetta (Jim McCarthy); Medlar * (Martin Boysen) and Totalitarian * (Mike Thompson) Raven Crag, Thirlmere.
- 1964 Coronation Street Cheddar * (Tony Greenbank); The Holy Ghost Scafell * (Mike Thompson); West Face of the Cardinal * (Tom Patey and another); West Face Direct of Aig. du Plan * (Lito Tejada Flores); North-East Ridge of Dent du Midi * (Rusty Baillie and John Harlin); Right-Hand Pillar of Brouillard, Mt Blanc * (Rusty Baillie, John Harlin and Brian Robertson).
- 1965 North Face Direct of the Eiger * – in supporting role; Old Man of Hoy Orkneys * (Jpm Patey and Rusty Baillie).
- 1968 North Face of Aig. d’Argentiere (Dougal Haston) – in winter.
- 1969 March Hare’s Gully Applecross *w (Tom Patey); Great Gully of Garbh Bheinn *w (Tom Patey and Don Whillans).
- 1970 South Face of Annapuma Nepal * – leader of expedition -summit reached oy Dougal Haston and Don Whillans.
- 1971 East Face of Moose’s Tooth Alaska – attempt with Jim McCarthy, Tom Frost and Sandy Bill curtailed by bad weather; White Wizard Scafell * (Nick Estcourt).
- 1972 South-West Face of Everest Nepal- leader of expedition curtailed by cold and high wind; Great Gully of Grandes Jorasses (Dougal Haston with Mick Burke and Bev Clarke in support) – attempt in winter.
- 1973 Brammah * by the South Ridge India (Nick Escourt) – joint leader of expedition with Balwant Sandhu.
- 1974 Changabang * by East Ridge India (Martin Boysen, Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Tashi and Balwant Sandhu) -joint leader of expedition with Sandhu.
- 1975 North Face Direct of Aig. du TKolet *w (Dougal Haston); South-West Face of Everest Nepal * – leader of expedition – summit reached by Dougal Haston and Doug Scott, Pete Boardman, Pertemba and Mick Burke(?).
- 1976 North Face ofPt.20,309 Kishtwary India (Ronnie Richards) -attempt gaining two-thirds height; East Ridge of Mt Cook and Symes Ridge of Mt Tasman New Zealand (Nick Banks, Keith Woodford and Bob Cunningham).
- 1977 The Ogre * by the South Face Pakistan (Nick Escourt) and the West Ridge (Doug Scott) – the South Face climb ended at the West Summit. Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine took part in the West Ridge ascent to the foot of the summit tower. 1978 West Ridge of K2 Pakistan – leader of expedition curtailed after death of Nick Escourt in an avalanche below Camp 2.
- 1980 Pts 6200m * and 5400 * Kongur Groupy China (Al Rouse and Mike Ward) -climbed during a reconnaissance expedition.
- 1981 Kongur * by the West Ridge China (Al Rouse, Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker) – expedition led by Mike Ward.
- 1982 North-East Ridge of Everest Tibet- leader of expedition curtailed after disappearance of Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker.
- 1983 Orion Face of Ben Nevis (Stuart Fife); South-West Summit of Shivling * by the South-East Ridge India (Jim Fotheringham); Mt Vinson Antarctica t (Dick Bass, Tae Maeda, Yuichior Miura, Steve Marts, Rick Ridgeway and Frank Wells) – soloed final section prior to ascent by the others. Expedition led jointly by Bass and Wells.
- 1984 West Ridge of Karun Koh Pakistan (Ikram Khan, Maqsood Ahmed and Al Rouse) – leader of expedition curtailed by bad weather; Cruel Sister Pavey Ark (Jim Loxham) – first E3 lead.
- 1985 South-East Ridge of Everest Nepal (Odd Eliassen, Bjorn Myrer-Lund, Pertemba, Ang Lhakpa and Dawa Nuru) – expedition led by Arne Naess.
- 1986 North-East Pillar of Norliga Skagastozstind Norway (Odd Eilassen); Athanor Goat Crag (Dave Absalom) – first 6a lead. Yellow Edge Avon Gorge (Steve Berry); South Pillar of Grosse Drusenturm Ratikon and North-East Diedre of Brenta Alta (Jim Fotheringham).
- 1987 South-West Buttress of Menlungtse West Tibet – leader of expedition curtailed by bad weather.
- 1988 Menlungste West * by the West Ridge and Face Tibet- leader of expedition – summit reached by Andy Fanshawe and Alan Hinkes.
- 1991 Lemon Mountains Greenland – as climbing leader with Robin Knox-Johnston.
- 1992 Panch Chuli II * Kumaon, India West Ridge, with Graham Little on Indian/British Kumaon expedition – joint leader with Harish Kapadia.
- 1993 Chisel *, Ivory Tower *, Needle * Lemon Mountains, Greenland (Lowther, Little, Ferguson).
- 1993 Elbrus and North-East Ridge of Ushba Caucasus.
- 1994 Rangrik Rang * Kinnaury India – Indian/British expedition with Harish Kapadia.
- 1995 Drangnag-Ri * Rolwaling, India (Hoibakk, Myrer-Lund, Pema Dorge, Lhakpu Gyalu).
- 1996 Sepu Kangri Tibet- reconnaissance with Charles Clarke.
- 1997 Sepu Kangri Tibet- expedition defeated by heavy snowfall.
- 1998 Sepu Kangri Tibet- Muir and Saunders reach West Shoulder; Seamo Uylmitok * Little.