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CHRIS'S BLOG

Trek in Bhutan – Part 1 November 2011

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    I’ve just got back to Australia from a wonderful trek with my son Joe in Bhutan. He is a Personal Trainer here in Sydney and runs commercial treks as an enjoyable side line. The trekkers met up in Kathmandu and then flew with us to Paro in Bhutan where we were met by Finn, co owner of “Bridge to Bhutan” (www.bridgetobhutan.com) who were to give us really superb support and service.

 

Our complete team on a visit to the Tiger’s Nest – one of the most important and beautiful Gomphas in Bhutan.

Front row: Joe Bonington and Sue Glover. Back row: Bill Crozier, Kevin Bennett, Andrew Iggo, Robert Bennett, Mary Thomas, Gary Followwill, Carolyn Brisgeman, Chris Bonington

A great team that really gelled. This picture was taken at the end of our trek.

Our complete team on a visit to the Tiger's Nest

 
 
 
 
We flew there on a superb day, getting great views of the Himalaya. Here we are flying past Gaurishankar on left and Menlungtse on right. I had two expeditions there in 1987 and ’88, attempting Menlungtse, reaching its West (left hand) summit in ’88. View of the Himalaya

 
 
 
 
We arrived in Paro on the day that the newly wed King and his bride were visiting the town to present his bride to his people. It was a gala day with everyone dressed up in traditional Bhutanese dress. This is the main street, closed to cars for the day, and the men are wearing the “Go”, a special tunic, and colourful knee length boots. Men wearing Bhutanese dress

 
 
 
 
The girls are smart with long skirts and colourful silk jackets. The children always were traditional dress to school and adults must dress traditionally if working in or visiting any government office. This is just one way of helping to preserve Bhutan’s unique traditions. Women and children in traditional dress

 
 
 
 
  Bridge over the river

 
 
 
 
We set out on our trek on 20 October after an hour’s drive to a ruined Dzong called Druk Gyel at a height of 2489m. We were undertaking the Jhomolhari – Laya trek, considered one of the best in Bhutan. Druk Gyel

 
 
 
 
We were going through the Jigmi Dorgi National Park. It was a wonderful wilderness with pristine forest in the valleys, high grass lands in the upper reaches, unspoilt villages and superb snow peaks. ENtrance to Jigmi Dorgi National Park

 
 
 
 
Sonam was our superb guide – knowledgable, helpful and very resourceful. He’s keeping touch with the assistant guide out in front. Our guide, Sonam

 
 
 
 

We had a long second day through thick forest and it started to rain early on. Lunch stop was under some overhanging rocks.

Carolyn and Mary from the West coast of Canada making the most of the shelter.

Carolyn and Mary from the West coast of Canada making the most of the shelter.

 
 
 
 
It then began to snow… Chris in the snow

 
 
 
 
…and kept snowing all afternoon. Beautiful snow covered ground

 
 
 
 

But next morning dawned fine with our first glimpse of Jhomolhari – 7413m. The first ascent was made by Spencer Chapman in 1937 by its South East Spur – probably the right hand sky line.

Today the climbing of any peak of over 6000 metres is banned.

Jhomolhari - 7413m - above the trees

 
 
 
 

That day, on our walk to the Jhomolhari we had a serious crisis. Mary went down with a sudden and very fierce attack of cerebral oedema. Without the care of Dr Bill Crozier, one of our trekkers, the loan of a oxygen bottle from the Jangothang village health post and the fact that we had a “PAC” (Portable Altitude Chamber), she might well have died.

A local villager very kindly took them into his house since the rest of the team had already gone on to the Base Camp.

Mary went down with a sudden attack of cerebral oedema.

 
 
 
 

Joe, Bill, Sonam and Pasang our Tibetan assistant guide, kept pumping up the bag through the night. The following day two Indian Army helicopters picked up Mary and Carolyn and took them back to Paro where Mary made a complete recovery and was able to meet us at the end of the trek.

It was a real lesson though how important it is to have a doctor and a PAC (www.treksafe.com.au) with you on a trek.

The incident occurred at a height of around 3800 metres.

Joe, Bill, Sonam and Pasang our Tibetan assistant guide, cared for her before Indian Army helicopters arrived.

 
 
 
 
Sonam, Joe, Bill and Pasang whose superb team work and dedication saved Mary’s life.

The story of the rest of the trek coming shortly…

Sonam, Joe, Bill and Pasang whose superb team work and dedication saved Mary's life.

 
 
 
 

 

 

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